Posted on February 8th, 2010

Often, I am asked by homeowners about the general flow of the home improvement construction process. Many people are in the formative stages, when they originally approach me, and need an overview of the process before they are comfortable diving in. This is especially the case with regard to remodels, additions and custom home construction. Knowledge is power and projects of such scope require substantial investment, in terms of both money and time, so it’s only natural that people would want to educate themselves about what to expect ahead of time.
As such, I thought I’d delve into what happens during a common home improvement process within our city of elderly structures. The formula will always vary, depending on scope, size, budget and particular situation, but generally speaking, there is a system with basic consistencies.
Approach
Homeowners approach projects in various ways, depending on comfort, their style of processing and budget. Some people like to begin by talking with potential contractors, since contractors know first-hand costs associated with building, and can act as an additional eye to keep design within a realistic budget. In this way, the early introduction of a contractor provides added insurance.
Other homeowners like to begin by talking with an architect. The more information you can take to the meeting, the better. Pictures from magazines, photos from the interior of houses, swatches and drawings of any kind are helpful. The architect takes the homeowner through a process that begins with simple, schematic design intended to reflect basic concepts (such as room size, relationships, single line drawings of systems, electrical risers, water mains, etc) and may show elevation studies of exterior and interior applications.
Next, the architect will draw definitive, detailed plans including sections and elevations, materials, finishes, surfaces, lighting and fixtures along with any special building elements, equipment and systems. These documents are developed into comprehensive construction drawings and specifications (specs) that can be used to secure a building permit. The specs break the drawings down into organized, technical sections. An architect typically provides onsite observations and changes to the plans, as needed. The project drawings and specifications are architectural documents. Architects can also consult about color, patterns and texture.
An alternate route is to consult with a design/build firm. This is an organization that provides an in-house architect (and possibly, engineer), in addition to the construction component. The theory is that communications are kept smooth during the process and any potential disconnect between the architect and contractor can be avoided. Both designer and contractor are on the same page, from the beginning, and have established a system where they work well with each other, practically and personally.
There are benefits and drawbacks to the design-build approach. The homeowner may be locked into the design style and aesthetic that the architect is capable of producing. In theory, an architect will be able to extract and understand what the homeowner wants and reflect that intent in appropriate, conscious, practical drawings, but that is not always the case. Architecture is an art form. Additionally, personal chemistry will always be an important factor.
A homeowner may also be more comfortable with one component of the design-build team more than the other. They may like working with the contractor, but not the architect, or vice versa. Many design-build firms offer the choice of working with either the architect or contractor independently, and understand homeowners may want to retain flexibility in staying connected for the entire construction process. Homeowners may enjoy the initial design component, but then want to look at options for construction, due to cost or chemistry.
It is of note that contractors typically have architects they are already comfortable working with, and with whom they have an established rapport and trust. The same is true for architects. Homeowners can choose to source the contractors independent of the architects, or they sometimes rely on the architects to bring in contractors to bid on the project they have designed. In this instance, the homeowner can either gain or lose a bit of control. Any good independent contractor and qualified independent architect should be able to work professionally with one another. A contractor who has a good working relationship with an architect that they introduce for projects is not an automatic design-build firm.
Some contractors are naturally comfortable with design. Through experience and with a good eye, they can provide design solutions and ideas to keep costs low. Other contractors are only comfortable working from clearly defined designs, as crafted by an architect, and would rather stick to their specialty- the building.
** Generally speaking, per the City of Seattle,professional drawings are not legally required for projects whose total valuation is less than $30,000 and that do not require significant structural modifications to the existing structure. A bathroom or kitchen remodel can be completed without architectural plans if they fall within the financial and physical constraints.
The term ‘designer’ is used interchangeably between architects, interior design professionals and color consultants. Roles of each can overlap, and the homeowner needs to distinguish between the three design types to be sure they understand intent, experience and qualifications. Homeowners may choose to consult with an interior designer to help with the interior architectural finishes, such as fabrics, lighting fixtures, appliances, appliance fixtures, color, materials, countertops, flooring and tile design and layout.
After plans are completed, an engineer is brought on board to spec out items such as beam sizes, flooring joists, etc. Engineers must put their stamp of approval on plans before the city will sign off on them. If the city finds flaw in the plans, and engineer will need to stamp the corrections, once made. A contractor or architect will be able to introduce an engineer.
Permitting
Permits are required for projects that cost $4,000, or more- within a 6-month project period, with special exemptions, and different types of permitting necessary, depending on scope, cost and nature of work to be completed. Some examples of projects that may not require permits are: insulation, windows, painting, roofing, siding (non-structural) and some concrete work. This is not a comprehensive list. Construction permits are valid for 18 months from the date of issuance.
Either the architect, contractor or homeowner can apply for permits, though it usually falls to the architect or contractor, who have established relationships with the city. If an architect is on board, they’ll be the likely candidate.
There are several basic types of permits that the city’s Department of Planning and Development (DPD) will require.
• Plan Reviewed Projects- this permit is typically for the more complex projects requiring significant structural and/or potential to impact the environment. Anything involving the alteration of load bearing walls will fall in this category, as well.
• Subject to Field Inspection (STFI)- this permit is required for smaller projects such as roof repair, some demo, foundation repair, various alterations and additions, such as a minor bathroom remodel.
• Over the Counter- most trade permits qualify for this type of permits. Some examples are plumbing, roofing, electrical, HVAC, side sewer, etc.
• Drop off Permits- those that don’t require an appointment for review (see DPD website for details).
Some decks and fences require permits, depending on height, whether or not they exceed the lot size and how the fence or deck is attached to the house. Homeowners need to make sure the fence is actually built on their legal property. To seek this information a person may need to get a survey or look at information stored at: www.seattle.gov/util/Engineering/Records_vault/Hours_&_Location/COS_001837.asp.
Contractor Selection
If the project is large is scope (such as a remodel or addition), the homeowner should contact 2-3 reputable contractors to consult with and provide estimates and timelines of work to be completed. Clear measures need to be established in identifying the scope of work and terms and conditions of construction. Sometimes homeowners do not have a solid understanding of what they want, the pieces that will come into play, decisions that will have to be made and questions that will need to be answered. Through meeting with contractors, and as discussions ensue, they will begin to grasp what is involved and will formulate a more clear picture of what they want and which contractor they are most comfortable with.
Chemistry is an important component of every project. I find that what works for one client, in terms of personality and communication style, does not necessarily work for another. The homeowner needs to pay attention to his or her instincts, since the contractor will interact often and about sensitive situations with the homeowner, throughout the project.
Before a contractor is hired, a homeowner needs to know that they are a registered contractor within the state and have current and appropriate bond and insurance. They must also be cleared for prior complaints or claims against them, with regard to current and prior business licenses. A general contractor must have a $12,000 bond and is only required by law to have a $300,000 insurance policy. However, this amount of coverage is inadequate, and at least a 1 million dollar policy is necessary. Electricians need a $4,000 bond and some sub contractors can carry an insurance policy for a lower amount.
Of equal importance in verifying reliability and qualification, is the need to reference check each contractor before a contract is signed. Our organization verifies all components of the required qualifications and administers a lengthy reference check on each contractor, including, but not limited to asking about keeping within budget, timeliness, cleanliness, use of change order forms, subcontractors, reliability, attitude, overall process and workmanship. A homeowner will be looking for competence, cost and personal connection.
The Process
From the beginning, the homeowner needs to be up front and clear about budget and timeframe. The more information the contractor has from the beginning, the better the communication should be.
Once the homeowner has selected a contractor, the contractor must present a written contract- a binding legal document- and subsequent invoice(s) for services provided. The contractor’s contract should base his price on the architect’s particular drawings and specs, if an architect is engaged. The contract should execute the contract under the same name as is registered with the Department of Labor and Industries. In addition, contractors typically issue a warranty for their work for one year (if remodel or addition) and/or furnish warranties of products such as roofing, HVAC systems, windows, etc.
Contractors have various types of approaches to contracts. Some contractors employ a simple, 1-page document, while others use a lengthy, multifaceted, very descriptive contract to describe expectation. The same can be said for types of compensation, though there are generally two types of payment for contractors:
1. Fixed Bid- A fixed price is established between the homeowner and contractor. This amount will include the contractor overhead (administrative, etc) and profit.
2. Cost-Plus basis- The contractor proceeds with the work and submits all of his bills and invoices to the homeowner. The owner reimburses the contractor for construction costs incurred by the contractor with additional fees for overhead, profit and supervision. Sometimes, cost-plus contracts have a ceiling- or a maximum price where the homeowner is not responsible for excess of that price.
On projects that don’t require a lengthy time commitment, the contractor collects a down payment w/ remainder due upon completion. Sometimes, it’s half down, half at completion. Many times, it’s one third down, one third partway into the project and the last third at completion. Smaller remodels, roofing, painting, etc typically fall into this category.
On larger, more lengthy projects (larger remodels, additions, custom construction), progress payments are made. These payments can be made weekly, bi-weekly or monthly, and they are not a reflection of percentage of project completed. Rather, the payments generally fluctuate greatly, and reflect actual work completed within a particular timeframe- some being a large percentage of the cost due and others collecting a more modest amount.
If the homeowner is financing the construction project with a loan, the lender will likely make on-site visits to determine progress, certify and calculate loan disbursements to the homeowner. The lender may, as needed, issue checks to the homeowner, who will then pay the contractor.
Changes often occur in the design of the work, as the process evolves and homeowners alter design function and aesthetic. Sometimes design changes are required by the city, but changes can also be requested by the contractor, architect or homeowner. Most often, the homeowner wants to tweak the original design, as functionality and style is more acutely addressed. There should be a provision in the contract for such occasions and change orders should be agreed upon in writing before contractors proceed with the work. The change orders usually impact price and schedule of the project.
Allowances are a portion of the contract price that constitutes what may be spent on a certain part of the project. Allowances are referenced when a homeowner has not determined exact items such as flooring, appliances, fixtures, countertops, lighting, etc. The allowance could be in the low, mid or high range, but it serves as a starting point to ensure the expense is taken into consideration, even if the specifics of the items are unknown, initially. Product material costs fluctuate greatly.
Home Stretch
Throughout the process, the homeowner will need to make sure to ask questions- many of them- and often. The homeowner needs to make sure they are clear on every detail of the process, from beginning to end. Good communication will be a required component of any successful project.
Priorities have to be identified, trade-offs incorporated, if necessary, and cost-benefit analysis will likely be implemented for the particulars that develop.
In the end of most projects, punch lists are gone through to make sure all lingering items are addressed, before final payment is made. The punch list organizes and states details that remain incomplete, broken lacking parts or requiring review.
Posted on December 1st, 2009


Our friends Tim and Tiphanie embarked on the ultimate home enriching experience this past summer. With more time on their hands than expected, they decided to dig in to an extensive backyard remodel. Tim’s well known by family and friends for his handy ways and the ability to be thrifty, but he outdid himself w/ this project. They had done some planting, mild improvements and had even built an amazing tree house (coveted by the local teens and, on occasion, furtively used in the wee hours), but they’d always planned to do more.
With an extra large yard to play with, T & T set out to create a tranquil, peaceful Asian-themed family escape- partly in honor of Tim’s mother (who had passed away in recent years), and a good sized dog area for their 3 canines. Mission accomplished…and then some. Tim began by rebuilding the deck entirely, which required some pretty extensive structural reinforcement. No small feat. He disposed of most of the old deck using the free section of Craigslist and got some of his materials for the new deck, free of charge, as well.
They laid claim to a ‘Softub’- a hot tub which Tim extracted- free- also from Craigslist. It’s a unique and very interesting tub…not your standard issue, swirly faux marble, ‘70’s box. It’s shaped like a dome and looks like an orangish-brown version of a ‘Mallomar’ (the cookie w/ the marshmallow top all covered in chocolate). Curiously, it’s one of the most energy efficient models available, even though it’s ancient. The Softub uses an efficient heat recovery system and requires only a standard 115V outlet. It has a high density insulated body and cover, is renewable and recyclable and is produced in a green manufacturing facility where no VOC’s are present. It costs roughly $6- $16 per month to heat. Works like a charm. The whole family piles in often to relax and recover after soccer, running & basketball.
Next, Tim picked up free brick pavers- mostly from Ballard and Mercer Island homes (thank you, Craigslist). After painstakingly hand-chiseling the mortar off of every brick, he artfully arranged some 3,000 of them, creating a zen-like hardscape that’s quite pleasing to the eye. The intent was that the bricks look like rippled water- as if a stone had been cast. I haven’t seen anything like it. Amazing. When they bought the property, the area had been an impersonal sea of damaged grass, laden with tree droppings. Now the space is a visual feast, feng-shui functional, the family sanctuary, low maintenance and sustainable.
The Asian garden encompasses the northern yard, in between the house and southern brick area. It is enclosed by a low, cedar fence and features an elaborate arbor, black bamboo, Japanese maple, water feature, a fire pit, sitting area, the Softub and a plethora of carefully chosen green plants. Almost everything was, again, free. The pictures don’t do it justice. I’ll snap some more photos when the plants are in full bloom.
One of my favorite pieces is the sitting rock that the family lugged back from the Grand Canyon. Happened upon it, curbside, and had to have it. They couldn’t have planned that their brakes would almost fail for the strain, as they stretched down a long expanse of California’s Highway 101. Both family and rock made it back safely, and the slab accessorizes the garden beautifully.
All told, free and/or re-used items included several truckloads of sand, yards of rich topsoil, 3,000 plus bricks, lumber, plants, river rock, the sitting rock and, of course, the Softub. Major coup!
Posted on September 18th, 2009
What do tempura, milk, oil, limewash, clay and latex have in common? Names of earthy crayon colors? Maybe, but more importantly, they are each the base component of various sustainable paint products. Crazy? Not so much. In the last several years, alternative paint products have made solid progress. In the early 1990’s, green paints failed to take hold, but products have improved and green paints much are much more effective, on the whole.
Seattle is, apparently, the green capital of the US. Surely, its mecca reputation has much to do with its love affair for research and thoughtful application. Here’s a strange tidbit for those who are looking at options…Sometimes, no VOC (volatile organic compound) paints are only ‘no voc’ until color is added. Each colorant has its own VOC content, which varies widely and will boost the overall paint VOC’s accordingly. Some brands offer pigments without VOC’s, as well. Several brands have recently come up with this option to compliment the no VOC paints. The rumor mill says ‘Mythic’ brand is a good bet. No VOC’s in their pigments, either. Same w/ Aura’s low and YOLO’s (Greenseal certified) no-VOC paints.
The demand for safer, more environmentally responsible paints has tipped manufacturers and legislatures to offer an array of choices. According to the EPA, concentrations of toxic pollutants inside the home are many times higher than what’s lurking about outside, largely due to lack of ventilation indoors. Asthma, headaches, fatigue, dizziness, cancer and heart disease are all potential side effects of indoor air pollution. It’s no wonder when you consider that common paint additives are fungicides and biocides- to prevent mildew growth and extend the shelf life of paint. Several states have banned oil based paints, known to have higher levels of VOC’s.
Though sustainable paints have come a long way, they have not been perfected. One woman in Bothell had a frustrating experience recently. She has chemical sensitivities and, at the tail end of her recent extensive remodel, had a no-voc product applied in her family’s home. The painters found out that the product did not spray well (a major, well known brand). She had to have everything repainted by hand, which set the timeline back extensively and made for much ado and stress. Ouch.
So how do we weigh ecological and toxicological risks vs performance? While the oil paints off- gas at a much more toxic level, they are reputed to stop emitting after a couple of weeks (where the latex will slow- emit for years) and then last much longer than latex. Many painters I talk with like the oil paints significantly better- they wear well, last longer and look better. That said, I read recently that professional decorators are 40% more likely to develop lung cancer. Ouch again. A local paint supplier told me that homeowners are all over the eco-friendly options. It’s often pro painters that are resistant to changing their established systems and using new products.
Latex and oil are not the only avenues for beauty. Clay paints have an earth tone theme stemming from various blue, white and orange tints. Clay is for indoor application only and can be expensive. Lime paints (formulated via limestone- a calcium based mineral) are an indoor/outdoor product that create an antique look. The limewash sinks into the surface and leaves a coat of calcium crystals. They’re good on porous surfaces, but drywall and paint don’t take the limewash effectively. Milk Paint (casein)- a protein is extracted from milk and mixed with water. Clay and earth pigments form a thick, eco-friendly paint. It’s a form of tempura, which, purchased in powder form, must be mixed with water and used immediately to prevent clumping.
Eartheasy provides a list of low voc paints. Greenseal.org provides a list of certified paints and coatings. LEED and Greenguard certifications are helpful to look for, as well. For the last 4 years, we’ve chosen to apply only no or low voc paints in our home with varying degrees of success. The first attempt many years ago- a no-VOC primer, was a bust. Though I could apply it indoor in the winter, it just didn’t take well or cover like it should have. Since then, we’ve had very good luck, though we have only hand painted and not sprayed any product. We’ll forgo the oil and keep it safe. No to ‘form over substance’! A little messier and much more content.
Posted on April 30th, 2009
I am so grateful for the several beautiful days we recently had, punctuated by the 2 glorious, perfectly sunny and warm days that followed. We Seattleites really appreciate our good weather like no other.
Back in the day, there was an episode of Northern Exposure where one distinguished elderly gentleman found himself longing for more sun and the happiness that went with. His doctor astutely prescribed a visor that housed a special artificial light that would provide the ailing fellow with enough vitamin D to set him on the path to normalcy (or some form thereof). Said poor soul found entirely too much delight in the visor and abused his prescription by wearing it constantly. He ran around for 3 days and nights making jam and delivering it to everyone he could.
My last year at college someone had, on one fine spring sunny day, made use of the systematically aerated 40 x 40 ‘ section of campus lawn, by plunking fully formed carrots 1/3 of the way down in each uniform hole. Each spring I think of it and giggle a bit. Quirky humor. Why is she talking about the weather’s effects?…I thought this was a green building blog… you might be saying to yourself.
Great weather eventually leads to thoughts of where best to soak up the sun. Decks are an American favorite. In this past week, people have been liberated by warm thoughts of lounging on a deck, favorite beverage in hand, perhaps surrounded by friends and family, the sweet smell of barbeque wafting through the air and quintessential summer sounds (baseball, kids running wild, birds singing). A great deck is the ultimate stage for these common themes.
One client on Queen Anne had Tait, our contractor, build them a beautiful deck using FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified tigerwood. It was sustainably harvested and untreated, so that the surrounding soil and/or water remained uncontaminated. Tigerwood is a pleasing wood in both how it’s sourced and what it looks like. It’s a warm, deep brown with a gold and red hue. It reminds me of Brazilian cherry, but somehow seems more substantial. Feast your eyes on this wood and lovely craftsmanship. Steady on.
Suzanne in Edmonds recently went with the more commonly requested composite decking material (sorry- no pictures, yet). It, too, has many benefits including being made of recycled plastic, exceedingly durable, doesn’t splinter, crafted in various colors and is easy on the eyes. The debate rages between wood purists and composite lovers, as to which is the more environmentally friendly material. One camp points out that no new trees are harvested for production of composite. The other contends that composite can’t be earth friendly since it ultimately ends up in landfill, anyway. That’s the tame debate. Digging deeper, plastic lumber’s content varies widely and some are much more hazardous than others. Try to avoid PS (polystyrene) and PVC (poly vinyl chloride). Polyethylenes are better- though no plastics are desirable, since the common origin of all is fossil fuels. Some recycled plastic decking also contains fiberglass and wood fiber. Best to ditch those, as well. Bottom line is you need to do your research and make your own conscious choice.
At the end of your discoveries, I hope you are blessed with a great deck- upon which can be made a most northwest declaration- ‘The mountain is out’.
Posted on April 13th, 2009

Our Seattle client’s home had gone through various stages of incarnation throughout the years, enduring about 5 remodels, all of which appeared to be going in different directions. The result felt chopped up and incoherent and they wished for a more pleasing, functional, simple, modern palate. After much thought and many years, they decided the best idea was to start from scratch. They have a wonderful view and love their neighborhood. Staying put and reinvesting in their property makes sense.
Lee just completed basic plans- a first evolution- with tweakings still to be determined. I was dabbing the drool from my chin, as the renderings appeared on my screen. It’s beautiful. Brook and Chris requested a 3 story, modern, sustainably built home, and they were crazy about Lee’s style from the start. They’ll incorporate solar pv (photovoltaic- electric) and hot water systems. May just pre-wire and introduce the systems later, but the couple definitely intend to make use of solar energy. In addition, the design will include lots of natural light and passive solar design.
Dan will produce a well built structure with a tight envelope- built with SIPS construction (a specific request from Chris and Brook) for the roofing and walls, for maximum insulation and strength. Will insulate the concrete, though may not use insulated concrete forms (ICF’s), per say. They’ll super insulate, nonetheless, because that’s what they do as a matter of course. A rain screen siding w/ a 1x material between layers will help provide additional protection from the elements.
Much or all of the flooring will be made of a light weight, finished concrete to create thermal mass. The idea is that there will be a ‘reverse cycle chiller’ (most un-technical term) effect to create hot water in the floors on all 3 levels. The heat should warm up the spaces uniformly, instead of just below the spots where the (water) tubes are. Sounds like it’s based on a system similar to a ground source heat pump. A few options with similar themes to ponder. Brook and Chris will use spot area rugs, but may bring in a little cork or bamboo, or wood- still time to decide. They’ll use non-toxic building products and practices to ensure good indoor air quality.
The project will require demolition of the entire current home, so special care will be given to the process. They’ll employ recycled waste collection practices such as source separated (single stream) or commingled materials (where they are later separated out for material use). They’ll use selective demo and get those items that can be re-sold or re-used to the proper organizations for responsible material use.
Brook and Chris may get the process Built Green certified, but they are building it for their family, don’t intend to move and aren’t concerned with re-sale or branding. They wanted to build a smart, simple, sustainable structure and don’t foresee a move, but may look into LEED certification and/or Built Green. Will break ground this summer. Stay tuned…
Posted on March 27th, 2009



One framing solution some of our contractors use is Structural Insulated Panels (SIPS). An alternate to traditional stick framing, SIPS technology has been around for quite some time. One local contractor has been building with it for 30+ years. A common theme w/ contractors I work with is that once they try it, they tend to get hooked and not go back to stick framing. Exhibit ‘A’ is a SIPS panel perched atop my desk- amateur photography, but you get the gist of it. Contractor Dan (sounds so formal) sent me this photo of the boom and panel being maneuvered into place in a modern home he built in the Greenlake area. I’ll send photos of the finished product in another blog…
With SIPS construction, the framing system and insulation are provided in one application. A polystyrene core is sandwiched between 2 sheets of OSB (oriented strand board). Laminated together, they provide a product that is proported to be more eco-friendly, straighter, stronger and more earthquake-sturdy than stick framing. SIPS panels can be used in roofing, wall systems and flooring.
Stuart designed and built (with much help from Ryan and Avery) this beautiful home using SIPS. Far less time is required than stick framing- I hear about 1/6 of the time. Whole house systems can go up in days, as opposed to weeks. Time is money. The construction is stronger and straighter and energy efficiency is far superior- with up to 60% higher efficiency than 2×6, R-19 construction. Also- 60% less jobsite waste. Insulation must be added around the outlets and other orifices that have potential for air penetration.
The process sounds easy. Think outside the box. Architects work with manufacturers to design SIPS panels into the plans (suppliers are quite helpful). The SIPS company creates to specifications and delivers them to the site where they hoist them up, position them into place…and voila! The deed is done and homeowners can rest well knowing they took part in a solution to keep costs low, waste less and built a thunderously strong structure.
If you are considering SIPS construction, let me know and I can connect you with local experts.
Posted on March 3rd, 2009



Last fall I took a Healthy Home Training Class sponsored by the MBA/Built Green, the American Lung Association & the NW EcoBuilding Guild. It was an outstanding, comprehensive, detailed class with a phenomenal cast of teaching characters. Specialists from the area (we are fortunate to have many local experts) convened to share their knowledge in building science materials, processes, moisture & ventilation, design, importance of owner maintenance and overall health, as it relates to the building industry. I highly recommend this class (no- I get no kickbacks for enrollment). *A new session begins March 19th- go to www.Builtgreen.net for more info.
Sadly, it turns out that three of the worst indoor air quality offenders are common feel-good pieces that are hard to give up- fireplaces, dogs and wall to wall carpet. We gave up use of the fireplace (they consume more energy than they create and wood smoke has many harmful effects) and ditched the carpeting, but are holding tight to Carlos Ronaldo Tevez- our dog. He is our hairy third child.
The EPA says that we spend over 90% of our time indoors, and our indoor air can be 5x as polluted as the outdoor air. As you may have guessed, giving up smoking is the #1 way to help indoor air quality. Universal knowledge at this point, but the second best way to help IAQ is to shed your shoes at the door. Best to leave fragments of tires, insect hair, pesticides, lead (think little, black pellets from soccer fields) outside. If you tend towards DIY home improvement behaviors, make sure to use an N100 mask so particulates can’t get through. Don’t heat up paint to remove it- as the heat activates bad chemicals. The #1 reason for hospital visits on the weekend are DIY homeowners.
A great HEPA (High Efficency Particulate Air) vacuum cleaner is the Red Light-Green Light, made by Hoover. When particulates are out, it turns from red to green. ‘They’ say it’s fabulous- you can see, smell and feel the results. Use the dust mask when vacuuming. If you must install carpet, get one that is low pile and does not off-gas. That new carpet odor is formaldehyde. Have your carpets hot water steam extracted every 6 mos. and damp dust weekly.
Use eco-friendly cleaning materials. A no-brainer. Go to www.alaw.org/mhe for a brochure w/green cleaning recipes. Repeat headliners are borax, white vinegar, baking soda, hydrogen peroxide and lemons.
If your home is a construction site, you need to take extra precautions to keep indoor air quality healthy. It’s especially important if you have asthma or chemical sensitivities, but smart and necessary regardless.
One remodeler I work with, in particular, preps and preserves for remodels efficiently and religiously, every time. I went out to see how a kitchen remodel with one of our clients was developing and I was happy to see they had appropriately sealed (and then some) and had both the HEPA fan w/ HEPA filter (which separates out the particulates) and the electronic air cleaner on site. Standard practice. The clients absolutely raved about the contractor from every angle and I am sure that the care that Paul and company took to protect her health during the process was much appreciated.
Posted on February 20th, 2009

I had been curious to know what the house lifting process was like. Had a chance to watch our contractor, Alex, and a West Seattle house in action this summer. The homeowners saw wee ones in their future and to prep for that event, they wanted to create more usable space in their basement with better living conditions and more natural light. The couple wanted to make good use of what they had and expand on possibilities within. They decided to raise their abode 2 feet to make that happen. There were 4 cribbing piles built on the foundation floor in a Lincoln Log fashion, where the timbers were stacked up to support the house once it was raised. Steel i-beams directed on top of the stacks of timbers were inserted through the west end of the house and projected out the east. Likewise w/ beams through the north and south. Several jacks were strategically placed and operated by a compressor staged off the alley way. I was invited to hang out in the underbelly of the home while it was being lifted, but I chickened out, opting for the close-up external view, instead. As the house went up, piles of cribs were built up by careful, scrambling fellas- orchestrated by shouts of commands and questions by the lifting guru. The house popped and creaked mightily, but it went up like a charm. When all was meticulously level and confirmations made that all was as it should be, the jacks were extracted and the home rested comfortably on the i-beams and cribbing. Very cool.

><
<
>
Posted on February 6th, 2009
One method of insulation favored by sustainable contractors includes cotton fiber insulation made from blue jean manufacturing cut-offs. A good alternative to fiberglass batts, which are known to be carcinogenic, denim insulation typically has a borate solution added to keep the R.O.U.S.’s (Rodents of Unusual Size- Princess Bride movie, anyone?) at bay and to prevent mold and promote fire resistance. Borate is a natural, non-toxic substance and, though it wards off the beasties, it is safe for humans. In this picture, our West Seattle client chose denim insulation for her kitchen and dining room addition. This is the ceiling and part of west facing wall. Contractors warn that it is a bear to cut, but definately worth the effort.
Another alternative to fiberglass is loose fill cellulose. This is gray finely chopped up newspaper with borate salts typically added. This is a great choice for blowing into attic or closed wall cavities. The presenters at a weatherization gathering last week mentioned they like to apply it wet- which enhances the product even further. Cellulose seems to be the number one pick by the weatherization experts that I work with.
Posted on January 19th, 2009
People are asking for more tidbits about the Ballard kitchen remodel. Happy to deliver. These last couple of photos (note the red countertop) are prior to demo. The after-photos are impressive. The homeowners are headed towards ‘Built Green’ certification for the remodel with, I believe, a 3 or 4 star certification (5 being the hardest to earn) in mind. The Built Green program of the Master Builder’s Assn. encourages homeowners and builders to seek healthier, more environmentally friendly homes (new construction and remodeling). It’s a voluntary program and to get a 4 or 5 star rating, 3rd party verification is reqired. Ratings are based on a point system which evaluates energy efficiency, site and water protection, indoor air quality and material selection. We can introduce you to contractors who are familiar w/ the Built Green program and verifiers who can verify the process and product. 







But I digress. Back to the kitchen. It was a standard, small, dated Seattle galley-style kitchen lacking space and functionality. For the overhaul, they incorporated a neighboring room and opened up a wall- effectively doubling their space and light. Being a light junkie, I was all over the transformation. They get light streaming in from the east, south and west. Nice. Tim and Ryan also opted to ditch a door to the side yard and freed up some space for more built-ins, including glass front cabinetry for wine glasses, etc. Their kitchen has an open relationship with the living room, with a high topped bar space and bookshelves built into the living room portion. Luckily, the couple and their architect had good vision and style, resulting in a splendid duo of a functional, beautiful, inviting space with lots of character.